Paris 2012

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It all started on the Rose Line...

Parisian staircase where I was staying



Sept 20, I caught a train from Arles to Paris, and someone called Eric met me off the train. He was hosting through Couchsurfing and I had seen we had a mutual friend, Mercedes. For some reason there didn’t seem to be youth hostels so much in Paris, and I had researched and found Eric in Couchsurfing for this time. This was the first time he had hosted someone, I stayed on a mattress in his lounge and was grateful. The flat was in Montmarte, which is a really interesting area, at rue Myrha

Sept 21, the next day, I wanted to go to the Church of Saint-Sulpice. As it followed the Rose line from Renne le Bains, where I had just been. So I went there, as it was also World Peace Day and I wanted to hold space for the recent passing of a friend Jenny (she had run a cafe in Edinburgh). The Paris Meridian is about 100 metres east of the gnomon in the church. The gnomon, (which is the part of a sundial which casts a shadow) with a strand of brass wire incrusted on it, which represents the meridian line.

This was the first time I felt the energy working through me as a connector, outside the church on an energy point I found. It felt quite powerful. I really didn’t know what I was doing, It just felt right to stand there for a good long time until it had eased. It wasn’t something I had planned to do, I just felt called to this place, and seemed to know intuitively. Its like the energy shifts to stillness, the ease.

This Roman Catholic church is only slightly smaller than the Notre Dame, and is the second largest church in Paris. Also mentioned In Da Vinci Code book by Dan Brown

Church of Saint-Sulpice
Meridian line
Meridian line

I only stayed there one night, as then went to stay at Parisian friend Renauld’s flat, that I had met in Porto. It seems he hadn’t gone on a trip he was going to and I was feeling a bit unsettled where I was. We walked and talked, sharing similar interests in ideas in consciousness. Walking to the Louvre one day, was partly overwhelming as it was very full of life and busy on those streets of Paris!

Walking in Paris
Walking in Paris

Sept 23, leaving Paris, leaving France this time, au revoir. It seems there was a new part to my journey now, one I didn’t quite understand yet, but trusted what was unfolding. It all started on the Rose Line.

I had organised a carpooling ride, so joined with Celine, driving from Paris to Brussels.

Arles 2012

Sept 18, travelled from Carcassonne to Arles, arriving at about 9pm and went to stay at Hostel Arles, on 20 Avenue Foch. The train went through Nimes on the way. The next day, went exploring with a Hostel friend. There are many great galleries in Arles to wander through.

I had come to Arles, because of the strong connection that Vincent Van Gogh had to the town, in that he had lived here. And the painting ‘Bedroom in Arles’, I had always admired. I adored the coloured shutters throughout the town, and so was slightly obsessed with photographing them. I stayed two nights in Arles.

On the 20th of September, caught a train from Arles to Paris.

Carcassonne 2012

September 17, early morning bus from Esperaza to Carcassonne. I stayed at the Youth hostel which is actually right in the heart of the medieval walled city, (The Auberge de Jeunesse Hi Carcassonne).

Staying one night and walking around the city was like stepping back in time. There was a spectacular sunset that evening, and I spent time by the outside walls watching it. Carcassonne is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

As I am very interested and respectful of the wisdom of the Cathars, and had been in the Cathar region before arrival. Evidently the Cathars were not treated very well on this location many years ago… ‘When the first group arrived in Carcassonne,  Fred described how the Cathars had been subject to the Inquisition, in the Tower of Inquisition, tortured in an attempt to force them to renounce their own faith and turn to Catholicism. They were then tried in the Tower of Justice, found guilty of heresy, thrown into a prison (without windows), which was built between the two towers nicknamed ‘The Wall’ . They were without water, air, or food (men, women and children) and then they were taken out and burnt at the stake. The Wall itself no longer exists, but the two towers do.’ http://chrissieastell.com/ Now as I write this blog years later after going there, and find this piece of writing I understand more of why I felt called to go there. At the time I was not aware of this information.

Sunset glow
Spectacular sunset at Carcassone
Carcassone
German friend from the Hostel.

Sept 18, travelled from Carcassonne to Arles, arriving at about 9pm.

Espéraza 2012

Espéraza

Quillan

September 13, I bussed from Barcelona to Perpignan, and then a bus to Quillan, in Southern France, the bus ride was incredible through the Cathar region, my mouth was open a lot of it, because of the jaw dropping beauty, with villages and houses nestling in the rock. This is a spectacular region, with the river Aude runs through the town. And stayed one night with a young couple from couch-surfing, the house was on Jean Jaures, and then the next day moved to stay with Marie Batôt, in the village of Espéraza. One of the hosts dropped me off as it wasn’t far away.

Espéraza

Marie took me wild fruit picking. Marie was also hosting me from Couchsurfing. And it was wonderful to stay with a local, she also took me to her allotment where she grows her own vegetables. She was a lovely host, and took me many places, as I had expressed in interest in coming to the area because of Mount Bugarach. She took me to Renne Le Bains and to the sacred mountain of Mt Bugarach. I stayed three nights with Marie, in her very old apartment (1729), 13 av de la Gare. The Sunday markets were wild.

Collecting wild elderberries, a keen forager.

Batots house where I stayed for three nights.
Date above the door



Walking around the village

The next day we went to St Renne Le Bains. We walked and soaked in the mineral hot pools.

The next day we went to Mt Bugurach. Batôt was helping a community group whom were making a sustainable structure, in a cool small town near Bugurach.

Town near Mt Bugarach
Mount Bugarach
Mount Bugarach

Whilst in Espéraza, I visited the two museum’s right next door to each other. Interesting in such a small town. I went to the dinosaur exhibition and hat museums, they have found lots of dinosaur bones in area.

Dinosaur bones found in the area

Hat Musuem

‘First in 1830 and then in 1878 Espéraza enjoyed a prosperous period due to headwear, encouraged by the arrival of the railway. By 1929, there were 3000 Espéraza workers and 14 factories which allowed the village to become the second largest manufacturer of felt hats in the world (after Monza, Italy). But fashion had a terrible impact on the garment industry: the hat was worn less and less in the mid-20th century and Espéraza plunged into an economic depression.’ Wikipedia 

Hat Factory
Machine at the Hat Factory
Where did you get that hat?

September 17, Espereza to Carcossone (only 1 euro bus) caught early in the morning.

Barcelona 2012

Madrid

Sept 3, I caught a bus from Guarda to Madrid. Elena and her sister met me at the bus station in Madrid. We had met at the Angel Art Festival in Portugal. I stayed with them for two nights. I walked around Madrid. Visited many parks and rested on the earth and near the trees. I think I was a bit tired whilst in Madrid, and Elenas sister is a massage therapist, so I enlisted for a for a session in the morning before I bussed to Barcelona

Wire bull sculpture in Madrid
One legged posing outside Madrid shop.

Barcelona

Sept 5, caught a bus from Madrid to Barcelona. Went to stay at a youth hostel that evening, called the Hipstel, on Carrer de Valencia, walked for ages trying to find it, had to give in and get a cab in the end. Nice hostel but didnt get much sleep, as lots of chatting in the room.

Walking in Barcelona

Sept 6, the next day I went to Cesci’s house. Cesci I had met in Guarda, he had come to visit one of Daniels friends. He is a very talented photographer, at that stage he was a wedding photographer. It was great to chat with a local artist. He invited me out for dinner with some of his friends one night. I stayed on his couch for a week. One day I brought a new digital camera, as the last one I had got sand in it. I was quite exhausted so was happy to stay and rest somewhere. Cesci was away a few times for his wedding shoots. I went out during the day and was back early evening. I did some cleaning of his flat a wee bit whilst I was there, to say thankyou. His flat was in the Gothic Quarter, near the Arc, Carrer Montanyans 1

Cesci, out walking, explaining things in Barcelona

I went to Sagrada Famillia one day, but didnt go in.

photo Cesci took
outside Sagrada Familia, designed by the Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi. He is also buried there.

‘You will see that most of Gaudí’s constructions have an organic look to them. This basic concept of using nature as the primary influences for his creativity is reflected in the use of the natural curved construction stones, twisted iron sculptures, and organic-like shapes – all of which are characteristic traits of Gaudí’s architecture’. http://www.barcelona-tourist-guide.com

Sagrada Familia
Sagrada Familia
Sagrada Familia
Cesci playing with lighting outside his flat balcony
Walking in Barcelona

There was a march for Catalonia of the 11 September. And I walked in this too.

Catalan Flags everywhere in Barcelona for the March.
On the Catalonia March
Walking in Barcelona
Walking in Barcelona
Walking in Barcelona
Square where Cesci’s flat was where I stayed. On the left.
Walking in Barcelona
Walking in Barcelona
Walking in Barcelona
Walking in Barcelona
Walking in Barcelona
Walking in Barcelona
Walking in Barcelona

In my last day in Barcelona I walked to see the Gaudi architecture on Passeig de Gracia, which is an infamous avenue in Barcelona with Gaudi architecture

La Pedrera/Casa Mila
The architecture of Gaudi
The architecture of Gaudi, at Casa Batlló
The architecture of Gaudi, at Casa Batlló

September 13, bussed to Perpignan, and then to Quillan, in the South of France.

Guarda 2012

August 13, Daniel and Carla picked Monika and I up from Domino Vale do Mondego. We all went to stay at his atelier/studio in Guarda, in the square. We had great fun dining together outside. And Daniel had a dress up department at his studio and loved getting people in a new get up.

Cafe/bar downstairs from Daniels studio

The next day some of Daniels friends took Monika and I to a beautiful place by the river. Loved this spot.

Rocks and Rivers
Daniel and I in Guarda


18 August Monika, Daniel and I caught a train for a visit to Lisbon, I then went on to Porto.

Cheeses in Guarda

30th August, Bussing back to Guarda, again at Daniels atelier. I met one of his friends, a DJ and artist named Tigo. We went for a walk and to the markets. He took me to an outside concert one evening. Daniel knew many people in the community, a sculptor and also works in historical writing. He knew a lot about the history of the area. He was very social. He took us to a few different parties with a kind and cheeky heart. The day Monika was leaving, the gate got closed. We were staying upstairs at the atelier and got locked in!

Locked in


Sept 3 was my last day in Portugal. Brunch with Daniel was on me. Then he dropped me off at the bus station. He seemed sad to see me go, I was catching the bus to on to Madrid.

Porto 2012

Lots of stairs and ups and downs in Porto, a very cool town to explore. With its old riverside centre designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

August 26, caught a bus from Lisbon to Porto, and went to stay in a lovely hostel. Exploring the town and taking things quietly. Both cities, Lisbon and Porto, sit on robust rivers. That seem to be rushing towards the Atlantic Ocean after flowing from sources in distant Spanish highlands. Porto sits at the mouth of the Rio Douro, Douro means “river of gold’. There are five bridges on the river Douro in Porto. The oldest is Ponte Maria Pia. It is a curving iron arc built in 1877 by Gustave Eiffel, (as in the Tower).

Porto – (Image courtesy of the internet)

I went to the beach one day, but it wasn’t really much of a beach really. Met a new friend Reno from Paris at the hostel. We were interested in similar spiritual emergence and had some great discussions. I would do my daily meditation practise sitting on the floor of the hostel room.

The city is small and compact and you can walk or bike everywhere,. As long as you don’t mind going up and down. This hilly city, with its narrow medieval alleyways, baroque churches, wide modern boulevards and also little romantic like squares.  Porto is also known for Port wine.

On August 30, I took a bus back to Guarda, my time in Portugal was drawing to a close. Portugal is a place my heart holds very dear

Lisbon 2012

July 12, flew from Leipzig to Lisbon, Portugal. The first stop was couch surfing. I stayed with Yelena and her family just over the bridge from Lisbon in a small village. She was Russian and this was the first time they had hosted. She wanted to meet people from other countries, and had never met a Kiwi before.

The family lived in a small apartment. There were only two bedrooms. The teenage daughter had cleared her room for me to stay. They also had a small son, and her sister was staying. So it wasn’t like they had a lot of space to host! They were so welcoming and kind to me, I was to stay two nights. Also there was a beach close to their house, and her sister took me there with the clear blue skies.

I went in to Lisbon on one of the days too, and had a look around. Ups and downs of steps and buildings intermingling together and beautiful tiling on buildings. Then I caught the bus to Guarda, for the next part of the Portuguese adventure.

Then it was back to Lisbon on August 18. After the festival, new friends, Monika, Daniel and I caught a train from Guarda to Lisbon. My whole system was run down, so the others went out that night with Carla, but I wasn’t much fun. So stayed back. I was fasting/Monika left to fly back to Amsterdam. I rested a lot. Daniel is very sociable and had many friends in Lisbon. He was out every night. We stayed in his parents beach apartment. I went to the beach and went for quiet walks. He knows Lisbon well and showed me a few of the sights.

Then on the 23rd, I went to stay with Carla in Lisbon, in her lovely flat. She took me to some lovely spots that she likes. I had met Carla at the Angel Art Festival.

Then on the 26th of August, Carla dropped me off to catch a bus up to Porto.

Faia 2012

Volunteering at the Angel Art Festival.


July 14, caught a bus from Lisbon to Guarda. I was going to Domino Vale do Mondego, near Faia. This place was brought by a Dutch couple, Eelco and Karin. They organised the Angel Art Festival. Their Dutch friends and locals would come for a five-day festival. It celebrated the arts. I had found it online and then wrote to Karin to ask if she needed any volunteers. And she said I could come earlier too. It was once a neglected farm, and they had done great things.  Every evening all the guests and hosts would all eat together on one long yellow table.

I was staying in a tent, and doing a work exchange – 6 hours a day work, for free meals. Work was done in the morning. In the afternoon, I went to the river because it was too hot in my tent. I did different jobs, they made the most of my artistic talents and I painted signs and toilets! Also helping with serving food and setting the long outdoor dinner table in the evening.

My tent
Dinner time…Eelco on the run to collect a missing ingredient…
Painted the tent nos.

Also had the job of painting the slide for the pool just before the festival. I didn’t have any days off. I just kept working. It was too hot in the tent to rest. It was better to be by the river! I gorged on the fresh fruit. I drank the pure water from the bore underneath their place. I swear my eyes changed colour. I loved filling my pockets up with cherries picked straight from the trees and walking down to the river.

I met a couple from Denmark, he was coming to do the dance residency for a performance during the festival. They took me to Guarda one day too.

The road to the river
At the river
Clear water at the River… cold water!
Swimming at the river
At the river.
A local
Children up the treehouse
Keeping cool
Walking to the River

Angel Art Festival

August 5th-9th, the Angel Art Festival took place. I volunteered doing different things during the festival, from working in kitchen and serving soup. Setting up tents, and painting astrology signs. I met many new friends, Carla, Timon, Maarten, Meta (many Dutch people). I took myself out of my comfort zone. I hosted two workshops. One was rock painting with the children. The other was painting for adults called ‘Don’t faint! Paint’ (referring to the heat). Two people came. It was the first workshop in art I have ever hosted.

Childrens Rock Painting workshop I hosted at the festival.
Angel Art Festival
Workshop making at the Festival
Sculpture made in the workshops at Angel Art Festival
Music from local musicians in the evenings, outside
Luisa,a local, with my hand now a part of the landscape, artist Daniel Pereira Martins

I got roped in to part in the Shakespeare play too. Will Sutton was organising it. He does this event called Shakespeare Karaoke. It’s a thing he does in Amsterdam. It’s a way to get people involved and acting, even if they are not actors. As its all about participation. He insisted that I was in it. And be the Lion. I channelled my inner Lion, as I had to do a big ROAR. And Daniel too was roped in. I think it was A Midsummer Nights Dream. http://www.shakespearekaraoke.com

On the final day of the Festival, the people organising it invited me to the Sweat Lodge. The woman insisted that I should come. So I booked in. This was quite an experience. The lady also insisted that I should sit beside her in the centre circle (the hottest part).

The think tank, Eelco and Karin
Me and the kitchen staff, whom were locals.
Staying cool
little outside theatre
Where I was camping
Faia town not far away.

August 13, Daniel came and picked me up with Carla. We all went to stay at his studio in Guarda, in the square. Monika came too.

Schaddel 2012

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Schaddelmühle is where people come to create, it is in the small countryside town of Schaddel. It has pottery and ceramics studios and places to stay.

June 6. Frank Brinkman, had heard about the arts residency being cut short, and invited me to come to Schaddelmuehle sometime. This lovely place is just across the river from Hoeffgen. To get there, I took an early train from Leipzig. Then a taxi brought me to my new home for a few weeks.

I would walk a country lane to the supermarket to get groceries. When I first arrived, I didn’t know about the idyllic lane. I walked beside the motorway to get to the supermarket. It was not a nice experience. I got a lot of sideways looks!

It was a gorgeous place to stay, the swallows dipped and dived in the evenings. It was very quiet and there seemed to be no one else staying whilst I was there. I relished the quiet and all the trees.

Image courtesy of facebook page for Schaddel

As I went there after sitting the ten day silent Vipassana Meditation course, it really helped with the transition. An opportunity to paint and meditate in the countryside and I was very happy to have this time there. It was a valuable time to allow what I had learnt.  We were woken at 4 am every morning on the retreat, and started at 4.30 am.  My body was still on early o clock and so continued early meditations at 5.30 am. It was very quiet and perfect for this time. With a continued practice of three to four meditation hours a day. It was also quite full on though in that my body was still doing some intense healing after the Vipassana. And a whole lot was still being released from my system. I worked on a painting at this time as part of the residency.

Walking around Schaddel…

10 June, there was no internet there in the country. There are lots of cool birds to watch instead. Seeing the biggest slugs and snails I’ve ever encountered. I would also cross over the river to check my emails. On a small boat with the boat guy. A man with a paddle brought you across for a coin. You just have to ring a bell. A day trip to Grimma and a boat trip along the river home. And went to a small festival in the village called Schaddel Fest.

A friend from Leipzig, Patrick, rode his bike out to see me one hot day. He jumped into the river, it seemed like a good idea. It was nice to meet a woman called Cindy there, as she was doing ceramics in the studio. On the 15th of June, I went to Leipzig with Cindy and stayed at her flat for a few nights. Then I came back to the quiet retreat of Schaddel. I was there for the Solstice, enjoying the environs, and working with painting. June 22, again to Leipzig and back to Schaddel for the last two nights.

Leaving at 7 am in the morning, the lovely caretaker dropped me at the train station. He gives me a hug and says please come and stay with us again. I catch a train back to Leipzig, appreciative and grateful for the restorative time there in the German countryside.