26 June, Waking early, I was ready to be picked up at about 6.45 am, as the Greenline bus was leaving at 8 am. I met Toi from Bangkok, and we ad lunch together at the free lunch stop. It was a beautiful stop near a river, it was nice to get closer to greenery again, with less dust. With people living in the lush hillside greenery, it seemed healthier than the dust, pollution, bricks and cement of Kathmandu. The buses in Nepal seem geared up for the bumpy roads and the road was bumpy all the way. We saw three buses on the roadside that looked like had been in accidents. It took about 6 to 7 hours.

I arrived in Pokhara and booked into the Peace Eye Guest House. I sat by the lake for a while and had a rest that afternoon. Loving the smoothies in Nepal, with a banana, papaya, mango smoothie. Later on, on a walk closer to the lake, there was a shop full of crystal necklaces. Amid the Indian shopkeeper enticed me in to try on some of the Topaz ones.

27 June, I was very tired and slept later than I had in a long time. I went for a walk, sat by the lake. A Nepalese man sold me some postcards and random things. I had Papaya and shared some, he suggested marriage. That afternoon, I felt to be near nature and peace without anyone trying to sell me something. I walked in the heat into the trees and up the hill. It was a very hot day. I found an umbrella to buy because people use them for shade as well as rain in summer. It was the monsoon season. I found a peaceful spot up there and a view over the lake.

A man with a taxi offered to take me up to the Peace Temple for the sunset. He also offered a trip to the waterfall and cave. As it was a sunny day, and quite hot. I said yes, but I had to go and get something to eat, he said he would wait for me. I went to the Organic Black and White restaurant. For a delicious meal of sweet and sour veges with tofu and rice noodles.

Then I went to meet the taxi driver. We went to the World Peace Stupa. It was nice up there, and we meditated together sitting at the temple, after walking around clockwise. Concentrating on peace, people watched as we walked around. It has a beautiful view out over the lake. Narayyan Parajuli, was the name of the taxi driver that became a guide.

Davies Waterfalls

Then onto the Davies waterfalls – string waterfalls. Given this name as a European women was bathing with her partner there and got swept away. Its Nepali name is Patale Chango, which literal meaning is Paatal Ko Chango “Underworld’s Waterfall”. This is one of the most visited places in Nepal.

Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave

Next to it is a cave, Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave. Walking into it is a bit slippery and steep in some places. He helped me with his light and provided reassurance. A woman from Bangladesh was there with her partner. She was scared to go down into the cave nearer to the falls. My guide Narayyan, helped her down and shone the light of his phone for her. I offered words of encouragement and as she saw me going down the stairs, so she went also. Afterwards they were so thankful to us and got a photo taken with us.

Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave is believed to be 5000 years old, and is one of the largest caves in South Asia. After entering deep inside the cave you can see an Idol Of Lord Shiva which has been formed naturally. Drops of water continuously dripping from the ceiling of the cave. Once you have passed through the tunnel, you find yourself in a huge open space. Which is really a cavern inside, with enormous rocks, no track and soil found only, small pebbles scattered everywhere. After a few yards of scrambling through the darkness, you find yourself on the edge of a crystal clean pond. From there, you can see the Patale Chango (Davis Falls) falling.

When I got to the bottom of the cave, it was amazing. The water of Davies Falls was flowing behind. I had time to enjoy the place and get to know it.

He suggested going up Sarangkot the next morning, which is the lookout view of the Anna Purna range. And that he would pick me up at 4.30 am in the morning. He said the weather would be clear and it would be a good day for it. We made arrangements. I went to sleep early with the thunderstorms.

Anna Purna Ranges lookout – Sarangkot

28 June, I wake early and I was off out the door at 4.30 am, and I waited for Narayyan until 4.40, then as I couldn’t see him, I went down the road and found another driver. It was a clear day, like he said it would be. And I got to see the Anna Purna, Machhapuchhare (the perfect pyramid) to Anna Purna 2. Lots of people were up there. The driver waited for me, and I met a woman from America. I really was incredible to see that mountain range. I took photos. Basked and stood in front in awe of it like all the other tourists.

The taxi driver took me back down. He dropped me off at about 6 am, where he had picked me up. Then I realised I had left my wallet in his car. I thought I would walk down to the lake to see if I could find him. I didn’t see him. However, I did see Narayan and let him know the situation. Seems he had come in the morning, but not until 4.50. He asked some of the other drivers and then called someone. Narayan said, ‘come with me.’ We jumped into his car. We went round the corner and there was the taxi driver. He found it in his taxi and gave it to me, and so I gave him 100 rupees. So, then I went to celebrate. I got delicious smoothies. One had papaya, mango, and banana. Another had carrot, beetroot, and ginger.

Bat Cave

I met up with Narayan again. I wanted to do something with him because he had helped me get my wallet back. We had missed each other that morning. As he had come to the hostel, but just after I had left. So he suggested the bat caves and off we went.

We went to the bat cave first. It was fine, and I asked him if he would tone with me. There was no one else in the cave. It was a large open cave. It was strong energy toning in there with him. It was a good thing to do. We walked up some hairy steps, to see the bats up the top. I didn’t want to take a photo, as I didn’t want to scare them, he took it with my camera. We had the torchlight off and could hear them making small noises.

Then he asked if I would like to go out the exit, I said ‘yes’, as you do. Not realising it was a quick way out, but slightly difficult. Which involved moving through a small hollow where I had to crawl like a snake out. It was a bit painful on the gravel and stones. And I wasn’t a happy camper, and would have preferred another exit point!

Mahendra Gufa Cave

Then he took me to the Mahendra Gufa cave, which is a crystal cave. When he shone the phone light on it, you could see crystal like sparkling. Then we did some sound toning, near an entrance to a river. Then some LL came through on the way out, as there was an opening blocked by large boulders. It felt this went somewhere. Then on the way out, for about ten minutes, we sat down and did more toning and meditation together,

Then he took me to the Gardens there. On the way back, we stopped at a dam/gorge. We saw water (milky white and cold) flowing underneath us from the Himalayas.

He invited me to stop in and meet his family on the way back. He and his wife have two daughters. He had a traditional cooked lunch. It was offered to me. I had a cup of tea instead, as I didn’t feel right eating his food.

29 June – Today I rest a lot, as I was very tired. I enjoyed a late lunch. It consisted of delicious fish wrapped in banana leaf and cooked with Sri Lankan seasonings. It was served with rice and vegetables and lemongrass tea at the Black and White Organic Restaurant. I talked with the hostel manager Saroj and two Dutch girls that evening. Sitting with them in the candlelit hostel restaurant. With thunder storms again that night.

I had booked a bus back to Kathmandu for July 1st. In my mind, I thought there were 31 days in June. As a result, I missed the bus that morning! Saroj was very nice. He re booked it for me. There was no charge and no problem for the next day. That day I was feeling a bit better. I went shopping, brought a bag and a book with beautiful paper. I went to the lake, and found a lovely walk beside it, finally! Seems I had been walking the wrong way all these days.

I went out on the lake with a new friend from New Delhi. Her name was Sumaiya. She was staying at the hostel with her friends, but they were away doing something else. It was a highlight of my trip to Nepal, it was 500 rupees each for 2 hours ($5 each). It was so peaceful and beautiful, the two of us in purple life jackets and being rowed. With lots of lovely birds. There was an island with a temple in the middle of the lake, Fewa Lake.

Later I saw my driver and guide Narayan and so was able to say goodbye. That night, I had dinner at the hostel with the three young lasses from New Delhi. There was also a Nepalese man who was a friend of theirs. They sung Bollywood songs until late, I enjoyed listening to them. We brought take outs in as the cook was sick at the hostel. Pokhara really grew on me.

July 2 – The next morning, I woke up early to set off. I said goodbye and paid my dues to Saroj. He shouted me the lemon and ginger tea! The bill wasn’t much. I was thankful for the whole experience. I found it to be a great place to stay. I did a review for him too.

Quite a Journey back to Kathmandu…

The bus ride back to Kathmandu was 1500 rupees with lunch, and this was quite a ride! First, there was an accident. We had to wait for quite a while. Later, there were some strikes on the road. So the bus ride that would ‘normally’ take about 6 hours took 12 hours. It was such a bumpy treacherous road. With truck and buses, overtaking on hairy corners and pot-holes dotted the road.

Anyways, at one stage we all piled off the bus. You could see the chain of cars. The line of cars was backed up for miles. There were armed police around. Four days before, a truck had gone into a house on the side of the road. We saw it as we went past, and the truck was still there. And the house owner was not given any apology or compensation. As a result, the people were striking and not letting traffic through. Fair enough.

I met new friends on the bus and we all felt a bit like refugees bonding together. I met a Nepalese women called Rominda, as she was sitting beside me on the bus. Her English was very good, and we conversed a lot though the journey. She kindly invited me to her family house in Baktupur sometime.

Sitting opposite me was Fei, who was from Hong Kong. She didn’t know where she was staying. We were getting in later than expected, so I mentioned Hotel Devachan. There were three Israeli guys and a Venezuelan near me too whom I met, and a French girl. I had emailed Nakul during the day to let him know I was coming. There was wifi on the bus. However, we didn’t arrive until 9 pm that night.

Kathmandu

We were all so happy when we landed in Thamel. A group of us went out for a celebratory juice briefly, it was fun. Then Fei and a Chinese lass came back to Hotel Devachan. The taxi driver got a bit lost, but we made it. Nakul was there to welcome us. Kieran took our bags upstairs, and my room was ready for me again. The girls shared a room on the top floor, they really liked it. Nakul’s family cooked us a delicious dinner even though it was late. And we all tucked in as we were hungry! We felt like refugees returning home.