July 27 – Caught a bus from Gorenka to Kawaguchiko Station. It was cloudy, so I couldn’t see the mountain during this drive. I got to the hostel – Koes House, which was right beside the station around 6 pm. I checked in and headed down to the lake. It was getting dark. I had some sushi from the takeaway shops there. I ended up eating my dinner every night in this way, watching the sun shining and setting across the lake. Sometimes breakfast too as it was not far to walk from the hostel.

I had the room to myself, which was nice. It was a three person Ryokan. This was my first experience in this way. Rolled up mattresses are on the floor. They changed the sheets every day. It was very small and very clean. It was upstairs and the rooms had no keys, nothing was locked, with a side door entrance. The walls were thin, so you could hear every sound. The Japanese are courteous and polite, so it seemed to be fine. However, some loud Australian tourists are a different kettle of fish!

July 28 – I rested in the morning, happy to have a room to myself. I had the fan going all night, as this kept it cooler. Today is not as hot. I walked up the road to the information centre. Then I ended up jumping on a retro bus that goes around the lake. I bought a bus pass that is two days unlimited around Lake Saiko and Lake Kawaguchiko.

I jumped off on a whim at the Kawaguchiko Music Forest Museum, The description guide… ‘In this romantic European – style building, you can listen to many kinds of musical boxes. Imported from all over the world. The gardens are just like the ones in fairy tale and women must love them. Suitable for wedding ceremony. You must like it here!’

I really enjoyed my time there.  There was one large music box that had been in the Titanic and another that had violins that played.  A Japanese lady showed us some of the old music boxes on display. She put coins in, and they came to life. One had little people dancing, one had a girl whom played a flute and a bird sung. It doesn’t sound that great. However, they were truly delightful. The small crowd of people delighting together enhanced the experience. Another music box was a slightly crazy looking man and he filled up his cup and drunk. 

The museum has marble floors, high ceilings, and chandeliers, it seemed very European in design. On arrival, the charming fountain outside started. Where a mechanical conductor came out the top of a building and then was conducting the water with the music. I was very tired on this day, so it was a good quiet thing to do. There was a large room with a great big French music box. From wall to ceiling, it was taking up most of the room. And like nothing I have seen before. It was a 10 min performance or so, with the mechanical thing playing horns/drums/violins, amazing! For some reason all the woman on the piece had moustaches.

Afterwards, sitting by the lake, I find a place to eat that is quiet. I eat Soba noodles with some kind of yam. Soba noodles are made from Buckwheat. And see the noodles being made, as the restaurant runs classes and there was a class in session.

And then I jumped on the bus again and went to Oishi Park, here there are flowers and lavender growing. It was cloudy, so I couldn’t see the Fuji. But from this place is lovely viewing place across the lake. I wandered around, very tired really. Ate some delicious fresh peaches and headed back on the last bus and dinner by the lake. I could see the mountain by the train station that night, and it was my first view of it! It really did take an exhale of breath, a pause; a moment of silence. Two other tourists were taking photos too and relinquishing in the view; together we took photos of each other.

That night I had a room mate, Bella from Edinburgh. We talked a lot; she is an artist who lives in Berlin.

29 July – The next morning. Bella and I walked at 5 am up the road to see a view of the mountain. It was hard to clear the city and power lines and get a good view, but we tried. We came back to Guest house and slept, then at about 10.30 am we headed down to the Lake and had some breakfast there, and then we went our own ways. I went back to the Guest House to rest a bit. And then went on to Saiko Lake. I really liked this lake, I had a feeling like I knew this lake.

Lake Saiko

I was drawn to go to the Thatched Roof Houses – and it was a wonderful experience. To Iyashi no Sato Nenba Healing Village.

This was a community of traditional houses. That was somehow swept away in a natural disaster in the early 20^th century.  It has been re-made and it was beautiful. I felt a real feeling of peace sitting on the porch of one of the houses, looking out at the view.

On a clear day there be would be a view of Mt Fuji in the distance. But not on this day, it was cloudy. I realised a peaceful time – either my lifetimes in a similar place. Or else I realised the peacefulness and bliss of a life there in a community. I met a young Japanese guide on the way in. He said had been a extra in the movie ‘The last Samurai’ with Tom Cruise. And he thought that Mt Egmont was like Mt Fuji. It was actually filmed in New Zealand, with Mt Egmont as the backdrop, as it looks like Mt Fuji.

The different houses had different themes; there was a tea house, welcoming people as they arrived. And another housed Samurai clothes and gowns of Japanese women and Geisha Girls, that visitors could dress up in. 

Ceramics, hand-made papers and Paper Mache were also made there. There were a few very powerful rocks on the way in, and I was guided to spend time with them. And then caught the last bus back to Koes Hostel.

A Chinese couple whom live in San Francisco – were sharing the room on this night, they were really nice. That morning, I had woken up with a really stiff neck. Similar to when I had been in Nepal, but not as bad. During the day I had been sneezing again with symptoms a lot like a cold. Similar to what had been releasing last time.

30 July – I felt drawn to go to three places near the caves at Lake Saiko. The bird park, the lava cave, and the bat cave. I felt there was some sort of line connection to Fuji-san. So I got to one, the Bat Cave. I meant to go to the three, but caught a wrong bus. So anyways, there I was at the Bat Cave, not to see the bats. I did toning in the caves. And on the way back out, felt some sort of energy point, just near the walkway, not in the cave. There was a part where rock had somehow been turned up, it was strong here. And it took a long time, many people going past and I was tired. But something eased and I was off back on a bus.

Taking a wrong turn on bus and it was going back to Saiko and the station. So I thought I would stop at Saiko lake. I sneaked in to the campground and lay under a tree for an hour until the next bus. It was nice. It was needed. Then I caught the bus back to the hostel and the the lake for dinner again.  There was a Malaysian women and an Australian man sharing the room with me that night.

31 July – On this day I went to 5^th station Mt Fuji. The Malaysian women was a pilgrim and going to climb, we took the bus together at 6.40 am. This was why I had come to Lake Kawaguchiko. I jumped on bus back at 1pm. I was very tired, headed back to guest house, relaxing and then to the lake for final dinner. The next day I caught early buses to Gotemba and then on to Ito.

July 25 – Took the Shinkansen, (bullet train) from Kyoto to Mishima.  It was amazing standing on the platform as they whizzed past. 

I took a bus to a Lake near Hakone. Then, I took another bus to B and B Pension Hakone, where I had my own room. It was a bit more expensive than my usual hostels, but nice for a few nights. I rested and caught up with myself as I was very tired. I put henna in my hair and watched random Japanese television. On walks, I felt there were some powerful portals in the forest there. Found a wonderful traditional restaurant that night to eat.

July 26 – A free shuttle bus goes round to Kowaki-en. That is the other hotel where I did my emailing on the free wifi. I enjoyed sitting in the big seats in the lounge area. I was looking out to the trees with an outstanding view of the forest. I also enjoyed watching the Japanese families going past. This area is well known for the Yunessan. It features hot spring pools and water slides. Many families enjoy these amenities with their blow-up animals and water wings. I didn’t go there, as I went to the Onsen baths where I was staying.

July 27 – After second night in Hakone, I was up early packing. I breakfasted downstairs and met a Japanese family with three children. Yes, Japanese children are the most adorable in the world. Nobody warned me of this before I went to Japan! The oldest boy was called Ewan after Ewan McGregor in Star Wars. They loved Star Wars.  Then to the Onsen bath before it closed at 9 am. To describe the Onsen bath experience. There are stools to sit and wash with a shower head and liquid soaps. After washing, you step into the hot springs bath. It is very hot but gorgeous. Then wash, rinse again, and repeat.  Leaving your clothes and towel in lovely baskets on shelves in the room next door. These baths had a water feature of a waterfall too.  I repeat, I have never been as clean as I was in Japan.

Funny story. The day before, I went to have a bathe. I went to the place I had been to the day before, but didn’t realise that they had been swapped!  The sign had been changed. They swap them every day. The Japanese symbol for men had been put up and it was a men’s Onsen for this day! I was in the changing room. A Japanese man went past in his birthday suit. He politely let me know before any further embarrassment! 

I checked out then headed to Gora, to the start of the cable car. I caught the free bus that loops Hakone.  I put bags into storage and crammed into the cable car with many Japanese people, and when I say crammed…. I mean crammed! We were are all very polite and patient when packed up together! Up we went; the rope car at the top was closed because of windy weather conditions. It had been very windy the night before. I had a quick look out at the look out. Then, I saw across the road some sort of signs for a walking track. Feeling guided to follow this path, I decided to head up. Check-in at the next place was not until three o’clock.

So then I found myself on an uphill, uphill, uphill, through the forest. I was there for a few hours. Found some amazing rock formations, and many words were coming out in LL, and holding different rocks. Beautiful butterflies flew past me. I saw no one else and got to the 24^th marker. I hadn’t gotten any further in sighting anything up the hill. I decided it was time to head back down again. I had done quite a climb.

We went back down and out of this beautiful forest. Then we joined the line to cram back into the cable car with Japanese families and holidaymakers. I got my bags out of storage, and caught a bus to Gorenka. From there I waited on the next bus to my destination. I stayed for the next five days to be close to Mount Fuji. This was why I had come to Japan.

23 July – I arrived at Osaka Airport in the morning. I flew with Air Asia X from Kathmandu. There was a transit in KL. I found my bag on the conveyor belt, and the handle had broken off in the transportation. A young Japanese man (airport staff) seemed to see my predicament. He found a blue strap/belt so I could drag the case. he said don’t normally do this; it was a ‘special’ case. Thank you! My first big Arigato!

But then the bags were searched upon entry too, the landing here was a small trial. But my time in Japan was full of blessings. What a relief to be here. It may sound strange, but even though I had just arrived, I felt I understand this place. I had come to Japan specifically to go to Mt Fuji. Then I found the bus that goes to Kyoto Station and whisked off. The skyline of Osaka was overcast. Concrete buildings and power lines were visible at a distance as we passed by. I had planned for this trip I would go straight to Kyoto.

Getting off the bus in the destination of Kyoto and found a cab. I was tired of dragging my now ‘belt’ bag! I had only written the name and address in English for the hostel. I forgot that Japanese letters are not English letters. Two cab drivers said no. They couldn’t read it. One cab driver got me there, as he called the hostel for directions. Another big Arigato!

I arrived at Khasosan Kyoto Guest House. It was very nice, and I met some people. I waited for check-in while sleeping in the lounge, where it was cooler. Then I went to a really cool sushi place that had a conveyor belt, and very friendly staff. It was on Kawaramachi Street, unfortunately I cant remember the name though!

That night there was a weekly origami lesson at the hostel, it was nice to watch. I was glad to get to sleep as I had been up all night again traveling.

24 July – The next morning, I caught the underground to Kyoto station. It is a big bustling station. I went there to inquire about trains or buses to the Mt Fuji area. I decided to bite the bullet so to speak. Brought a ticket on the bullet train, the Shinkansen. For the next day to Mishima. Done!

Kyoto was cool, but very hot! There are people handing out free cardboard fans everywhere, as these have advertising on them. I had never used a fan until now, and I realized they really do offer relief! As it would feel quite airless. I went back to hostel and rested happily in the air conditioning of my room. I heard chanting coming from the street. I peaked out to see men dressed in white in a parade. I find out later the parade is the Gion Matsuri, Kyoto’s biggest annual event. Seems it was an important day, and I got to see it out my window!

I went out for a walk later around 7 pm when it was cooler.  The lovely streets that are lit up at night. A Young Japanese lass at the Hostel had highlighted streets that were safe and perfect to walk to at night. Shinbashi Street and Hanamikoji St, which is in the Gion district and is known as the geisha district. It was charming, with traditional wooden merchant houses, machiya, and quaint ochaya, or tea-houses.,

I went to Hanamikoji Street, and the lanterns were all lit up in old world Japanese wooden doorways. Then I took a walk down Shinbashi Street. It was one of the most beautiful walks of my life. It was peaceful by the river, with trees overhanging and a shrine at one end.

July 25 – Took the Shinkansen train from Kyoto to Mishima.  And then bussed to Hakona.