Quillan

September 13, I bussed from Barcelona to Perpignan, and then a bus to Quillan, in Southern France, the bus ride was incredible through the Cathar region, my mouth was open a lot of it, because of the jaw dropping beauty, with villages and houses nestling in the rock. This is a spectacular region, with the river Aude runs through the town. And stayed one night with a young couple from couch-surfing, the house was on Jean Jaures, and then the next day moved to stay with Marie Batôt, in the village of Espéraza. One of the hosts dropped me off as it wasn’t far away.

Espéraza

Marie took me wild fruit picking. Marie was also hosting me from Couchsurfing. And it was wonderful to stay with a local, she also took me to her allotment where she grows her own vegetables. She was a lovely host, and took me many places, as I had expressed in interest in coming to the area because of Mount Bugarach. She took me to Renne Le Bains and to the sacred mountain of Mt Bugarach. I stayed three nights with Marie, in her very old apartment (1729), 13 av de la Gare. The Sunday markets were wild.

The next day we went to St Renne Le Bains. We walked and soaked in the mineral hot pools.

The next day we went to Mt Bugurach. Batôt was helping a community group whom were making a sustainable structure, in a cool small town near Bugurach.

Whilst in Espéraza, I visited the two museum’s right next door to each other. Interesting in such a small town. I went to the dinosaur exhibition and hat museums, they have found lots of dinosaur bones in area.

Hat Musuem

‘First in 1830 and then in 1878 Espéraza enjoyed a prosperous period due to headwear, encouraged by the arrival of the railway. By 1929, there were 3000 Espéraza workers and 14 factories which allowed the village to become the second largest manufacturer of felt hats in the world (after Monza, Italy). But fashion had a terrible impact on the garment industry: the hat was worn less and less in the mid-20th century and Espéraza plunged into an economic depression.’ Wikipedia 

September 17, Espereza to Carcossone (only 1 euro bus) caught early in the morning.